Doris & Ed’s: Classic Jersey Shore Dining since 1948
June 13, 2011
Report from the road:
Doris & Ed’s, www.dorisandeds.com, in Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey, looks like nothing if not a road house from a Sam Spade mystery.
The hard-to-find gray shingle conversion from house to restaurant since 1948, D&E has been serving a devoted clientele of tanned beachy types, tourists, and wise guys for as long as most folks can remember.
It’s the sort of place that puts the shore in Jersey Shore. Top quality fresh wild seafood, dry-aged steaks, local veggies and herbs picked from their own back yard garden, served thoughtfully on cool white plates, round, rectangular, and square, depending upon Chef’s whim, the 90 seats are set with crisp sand-colored linen.
D&E’s was doing farm and sea to table long before it became a fashionable trend.
The main dining room is bright with windows overlooking the Atlantic ocean through a vast parking lot. When Doris & Ed works his way to our table – D&E turns out to be an experienced saloon keeper named Jimmy Filip- who bought the joint in 1978, he brims with bon homme.
And when our party suggested to Jimmy that he might add a deck, or otherwise soften the look of all that asphalt outside the ocean front window, he assured us he needs every single parking space and that it was too bad we wouldn’t be dining with him again. Beneath his bright smile was the menace of a man who owns his own joint and brooks no nonsense from the guests or the help.
Jimmy can afford to take this stand, because he has survived economic ups and downs, fickle customers who don’t know a salmon from a snapper, and who tend to look askance at an item on their plate which they cannot readily identify – say a fiddlehead fern plus his own bout with cancer. Jimmy Filip is a winner.
And he has triumphed in the notably difficult trade of restaurant management, and has developed a clientele who now celebrate the birthdays of their children and grand children in the same upscale way their own parents and grandparents did, with a special night out at D&E’s.
D&E’s has been praised and awarded just about everything they deserve: The James Beard best regional restaurant award, D&E’s been featured in nationally recognized publications including Gourmet, Bon Appetit and the New York Times. Jimmy’s renowned wine list has been awarded the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence every year since 1985 (that’s 26 years in a row!)
Jimmy loves fine wines and has built a stunning wine list and a bar with contemporary and classic cocktails second to none. His Stoli Doli, which is simply Stolichnaya vodka infused with fresh pineapple, is a perfect example of his genius. Deceptively simple, completely intoxicating, served icy cold in a martini glass. you’ll want more than one.
Jimmy’s passion begins with dawn trips to the Fulton Fish Market, now in the Bronx, Jimmy has developed relationships with fishermen and vendors which guarantees that he gets wild-caught fish first, and best, and exactly what he wants, when he wants it.
Ditto when he buys beef by the half, hanging and dry aged just for him, then stamped with his brand so he gets what he chose. This man has standards, and it shows.
You can’t always expect to see the same preparation when you visit D&E’s. Executive Chef, Thomas Donohoe, is always busy creating a new and even more fantastic preparation. Check www.dorisandeds.com for a stunning collection of recipes you might download and prepare at home. The shrimp recipe, from April 2010, taking advantage of their herbs in the back yard, is a good example of the fine casual kind of dining you can expect at Doris & Ed’s.
The sumptuous and thoughtfully developed menu, in their own words is divided thusly:
Prix Fixe
Deliciously diverse three-course meals to delight your palate, (and your wallet)! An excellent value. I chose three courses beginning with Virginia jumbo lump blue crab and fresh limas in a soft creamy fettucine, followed by Copper River salmon over Brussels Sprouts, and finished with a selection of sorbets. At $32. This is a real bargain. And just as fresh and well-prepared as any of the ala carte choices.
Beginnings (Appetizers & Openers)
A selection of starters, soups, salads, and raw bar offerings, imaginatively prepared using today’s seasonal ingredients, regional flavors and our chef’s most innovative talents. The selection of raw oysters and clams varies with availability and is something to consider.
One at our table made a meal from the crab cake which was Virginia blue jumbo lump crab served on a bed of herbs from the back yard garden, with red grapes and tartar sauce.
Main Offerings
Our classic The Shore Yesterday, offerings; The Shore Today with our chef’s most innovative creations plus Back on Land featuring terra firma’s choicest selections.
From this group one at our table chose the pair of sweet delectable South African Lobster tails, served on a rectangular plate, another had the Alaskan halibut over whipped potatoes with glazed baby green beans and truffled beet essence, and we ordered for the table the roasted cauliflower and broccolini. These decisions were hard. We kind of wanted the soft shell crab, the Texas wild boar, and the snapper too. Oh well. Next time.
Afters (Desserts & Coffees)
Before you go, enjoy our “Afters.” Chef-selected cheeses. Inventive sorbets. Soothing digestifs. A perfect finish to the finest meals. Wines, Brandies & Cordials beyond your wildest dreams are offered here. We were too stunned and satisfied to even consider dessert, although we did share the sorbet, made in house and simply stupendous.
Trust me when I tell you that an evening at D&E’s is a night to remember.
Doris & Ed’s, Classic & Contemporary Seafood Oasis, 348 Shore Drive, Highlands, NJ 07732. For reservations call 732 872 1565. Check out their website, www.dorisandeds.com, or visit them on facebook or twitter.
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Posted by Linda Eckhardt
on Jun 13 2011. Filed under Restaurants.
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